The Fun Of Shoe Lacing (1)

You are tying your shoes everyday, almost in a mechanical way. But with these ways, you can tie your shoes in many ways as long as you pay some time and patience. These methods are widely used or representing a particular style.
 

Notice about the methods:

The start of the lacing is gray, while the lace end that starts on the left side is blue and the end that starts on the right side is yellow.

Criss Cross Lacing

This is probably the most common method of lacing normal shoes & boots. The laces simply criss-cross as they work their way up the shoe.

Lacing Technique:

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed under the sides to emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. Repeat step (2) until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Traditional look

Simple to lace

Comfortable

Corrugates shoe

Comparative Length = 100%

The shoelace length used by Criss Cross Lacingis the basic lengthcompare to other methods.

NOTE:

preferred lacing method for comfort, mainly because the crossovers of lace occur in the gap between the sides of the shoe and thus aren't pressed against the foot.

Over Under Lacing

This method reduces friction, making the lacing easier to tighten and loosen plus reducing wear and tear. The laces alternate between crossing Over and Under.

Lacing Technique 1 (for EVEN numbers of eyelet pairs):

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed Under (on the inside) and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. The ends are crossed Over (on the outside) and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between crossing Under or crossing Over, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Lacing Technique 2 (for ODD numbers of eyelet pairs):

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed Over (on the outside) and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. The ends are crossed Under (on the inside) and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between crossing Over or crossing Under, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Decorative look

Faster & easier

Less wear & tear

Comparative Length = 100%

Identical length Criss Cross Lacing

NOTE:

Firstly, the laces don't rub across the edges of the shoes, which reduces wear and tear on both the shoe and the laces.

Secondly, because of the reduced friction, you don't really need to pull every single crossover when tightening or loosening. Instead, you can pull every second crossover, which is both faster and easier because those that run across on the outside are easier to get your fingers underneath.

Straight (European) Lacing

This traditional method of Straight Lacing appears to be more common in Europe. The laces run straight across on the outside and diagonally on the inside.



Lacing Technique:
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.


2. The right (yellow) end is crossed diagonally on the inside and emerges through the next eyelet up the shoe, then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the eyelet on the opposite side.


3. The left (blue) end is crossed diagonally on the inside at a steeper angle, skipping past one eyelet to emerge through the next empty eyelet up the shoe. It then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the eyelet on the opposite side.


4. Repeat step (3) with each end in turn, each time running diagonally on the inside and straight across on the outside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.


Features:

Neat on top

Messy underneath

Comparative Length = 105%

Laced area uses more (about +5%)

Longer laces needed (about +2%)

Shortens lace ends (about −4%)

NOTE:

The underlying zig-zag makes this lacing very tight & secure. The mess is mainly noticeable on shoes and sneakers with a wide spacing (as seen in the first photo at left). On dress shoes, where the sides of the shoes are designed to meet in the middle, the underlying zig-zag will be completely hidden (as seen in the second photo at left).


Straight (Bar) Lacing

Often referred to as "Fashion Lacing" or "Lydiard Lacing", this variation of Straight Lacing eliminates the underlying diagonals, which looks neater plus relieves pressure on the top ridge of the foot.



Lacing Technique:
1. The lace runs straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed into both bottom eyelets.


2. One end of the lace (yellow end) runs straight up the right side, emerges and runs straight across the second set of eyelets.


3. Both ends now run straight up the left side, each skipping one eyelet before emerging two eyelets higher up.






4. Continue running both ends across the shoe, then straight up two eyelets at a time, until one end reaches the top.


5. The other end then runs straight across the second last set of eyelets, then straight up to the top.


Features

Comfortable

Even number of eyelet pairs = Neat look

Odd number of eyelet pairs = Messy look

Comparative Length = 81%

Laced area uses less (about −19%)

Shorter laces needed (about −9%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +17%)

NOTE:

Straight (Bar) Lacing only works correctly on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 6 pairs = 12 eyelets). This is because an even number of passes across the shoe is needed for the lace ends to meet and to be tied together. Shoes with an odd number of eyelet pairs (eg. 7 pairs = 14 eyelets) finish with the lace ends diagonally opposite each other at the top of the shoe.


Straight (Easy) Lacing

This is a simplified variation of Straight (Bar) Lacing where one end runs straight from bottom to top whilst the other end steps through the eyelets.

  Lacing Technique:
1. The lace runs straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed into both bottom eyelets.


2. One end of the lace (blue end) is fed straight up the left side all the way to, and emerges from, the top left eyelet.


3. The other end (yellow end) runs straight up the right side, emerges and runs straight across the second set of eyelets.






4. The same end (yellow end) works its way up and across back and forth through the remaining eyelets.




Features:

Even number of eyelet pairs = Neat look

Odd number of eyelet pairs = Messy look

End lengths shift

Comparative Length = 81%

Laced area uses less (about −19%)

Shorter laces needed (about −9%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +17%)

NOTE:

This lacing is best suited to shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 6 pairs = 12 eyelets). The picture at left shows one workaround to this limitation for use on shoes with odd numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 7 pairs = 14 eyelets).




Hiking Lacing / Biking Lacing

An inside-out version of Straight (Bar) Lacing, which distributes pressure evenly plus keeps the knots & ends to the side, away from either snagging undergrowth or from bicycle chains & cranks.

Lacing Technique: 
 1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and emerges through both bottom eyelets.


2. One end of the lace (yellow end) runs straight up the right side, is fed into and runs straight across the second set of eyelets.


3. Both ends now run straight up the left side, each skipping one eyelet before feeding in two eyelets higher up.


4. Continue running both ends across the shoe, then straight up two eyelets at a time.


5. At the top of the shoe, the laces end up on the same side and the shoelace knot is tied at that point.

Features:

Evens out pressure

Reduces snagging

Messy look

Comparative Length = 81%

Laced area uses less (about −19%)

Shorter laces needed (about −9%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +17%)

 
NOTE:

This lacing is best suited to shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 6 pairs = 12 eyelets). The first picture at left shows one workaround to this limitation for use on shoes with odd numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 7 pairs = 14 eyelets).

Sawtooth Lacing

This method has all of the underlying sections pulling at a steep angle, which shifts the alignment of the sides and may correct an otherwise ill-fitting shoe. 

Lacing Technique: 
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.


2. The right (yellow) end is run straight up the inside and emerges through the next eyelet up the shoe, then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the left side.


3. The left (blue) end is crossed diagonally on the inside, skipping past one eyelet to emerge through the next empty eyelet up the right side. It then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the left side.


4. Repeat step (3) with each end in turn, each time running diagonally on the inside and straight across on the outside, until one end (yellow) reaches the top right eyelet.

5. The other end (blue) is then run straight up the inside to emerge through the top left eyelet.
 

Features:

Easier to tighten

Modifies fit

Mis-aligns sides

Comparative Length = 95%

Laced area uses less (about −5%)

Shorter laces needed (about −2%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +5%)

 

NOTE:

Lace the shoe so that the angled sections point towards whichever corner of the shoe feels loose. When the laces are tightened, the angled sections will pull that corner inwards, altering the fit. Naturally, the left and right shoes should be laced in reverse (mirror image) in order to balance both the look and the effect on both sides.

Shoe Shop Lacing

Often seen in shoe shops because many shoes come pre-laced this way from the factory. One end runs from bottom to top while the other end zig-zags through the eyelets. There's two variations shown: One with a long diagonal segment, the other with a long straight segment.

Lacing Technique 1 (long diagonal segment):  
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The left (blue) end is crossed diagonally on the inside all the way to the top of the shoe and emerges through the top right eyelet.

3. The right (yellow) end is crossed diagonally on the inside and emerges through the next eyelet up the left side of the shoe, then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the right side.

4. Repeat step (3) with the same end, each time running diagonally on the inside and straight across on the outside, until it reaches the top left eyelet.

  

Lacing Technique 2 (long straight segment):  
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The left (blue) end is run straight up on the inside all the way to the top of the shoe and emerges through the top left eyelet.

3. The right (yellow) end is crossed diagonally on the inside and emerges through the next eyelet up the left side of the shoe, then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the right side.

4. Repeat step (3) with the same end, each time running diagonally on the inside and straight across on the outside, until it reaches the second row from the top of the shoe.

5. The right (yellow) end is run straight up on the inside and emerges through the top right eyelet.

Features:  

Easy to lace

End lengths shift

 

NOTE:

The left and right shoes can be laced in reverse (mirror image) so as to end up with a symmetrical look.

Display Shoe Lacing

Shoe stores and photographers often use this inside-out version of Criss Cross Lacing on their display shoes in order to finish with the ends neatly hidden inside the shoe.

 

Lacing Technique:  
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. Repeat step (2) until both ends reach the top eyelets and end up inside the shoe.

  

 






Features:  

Tidy look

Easier to loosen

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 100%

Identical length to basic Criss Cross Lacing 

NOTE:

Because it's easier to get your fingers under the laces from the top of the shoe and pull down, this lacing is easier to loosen, whereas Criss Cross Lacing is easier to tighten.

Ladder Lacing

This distinctive lacing is worn on military boots by paratroopers and ceremonial guard units. The laces weave horizontally and vertically, forming a secure ladder.

Lacing Technique: 

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends then run straight up on the outside and are fed into the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. The ends are crossed over and are fed under the vertical lace sections on the opposite sides of the shoe before continuing straight up and feeding into the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. At the top set of eyelets, the laces can once again cross over and pass under the straight section as shown. This not only looks consistent with the rest of the lacing but also forms a High Lace Lock, which tightens the lacing even more firmly.

Features:

Distinctive look

Stays very tight

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 127%

Laced area uses more (about +27%)

Longer laces needed (about +13%)

Shortens lace ends (about −25%)

NOTE:

Works effective on high boots with many eyelets, especially when contrasting laces are used.

Although this lacing is slightly harder to tighten, this can actually assist in getting the lacing really tight because the lower sections hold more firmly while progressing up the shoe. This makes it a great lacing to use on hiking boots, ice skates, etc.

Spider Web Lacing

Like an angled version of Ladder Lacing, this decorative method is also worn on military boots. The laces weave vertically and diagonally, forming an intricate "web". 
 

Lacing Technique: 

1. The lace is run straight across and the ends emerge through the second set of eyelets from the bottom (gray section).

2. Both ends are run straight down on the outside and are fed in through the bottom eyelets.

3. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed under the sides to emerge through the next vacant set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. The ends then run straight down and are looped under the existing vertical lace sections at the next lower set of eyelets.

5. Repeat steps (3) and (4), alternating between crossing diagonally upwards or running straight downwards and looping through the lower sections, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Decorative look

Firm & tight

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 127%

Laced area uses more (about +27%)

Longer laces needed (about +13%)

Shortens lace ends (about −24%)

NOTE:

This lacing looks particularly effective on high boots with many eyelets, especially when contrasting laces are used.

Boots with a very wide spacing between the sides (such as shown at left) display the maximum area of woven shoelace "spider web".

Stay tuned -- the list is still growing!

:: SHIN ::