Welcome back to the shoe lacing methods. Thank you for staying with us. Today's list will start from the 12th method. Happy reading!
Double Back Lacing
This method looks interesting plus holds very firmly, but is terribly awkward to tighten. The lacing first runs down the shoe, then doubles back up the shoe. There's two variations shown: One with hidden verticals at the bottom, the other with a visible crossover.
Lacing Technique 1 (hidden verticals, shorter laces): 
1. The lace is run straight across (grey section) and the ends are fed in through the second set of eyelets from the top.
2. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed in through the second-lower set of eyelets down the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).
3. Repeat step (2), criss-crossing down the shoe two sets of eyelets at a time.
4. At the bottom, run each lace end vertically between the bottom and second from bottom eyelets.
5. Double back and work back up the shoe, criss-crossing through the vacant sets of eyelets.
Comparative Length = 106%
Laced area uses more (about +6%)
Longer laces needed (about +3%)
Shortens lace ends (about −5%)
NOTE:
The hidden verticals at the bottom make this the neater of the two variations, plus it consumes less shoelace and therefore doesn't shorten the ends by quite as much.
Lacing Technique 2 (visible crossover, longer laces):
1. The lace is run straight across and the ends are fed in through the second set of eyelets from the top (grey section).
2. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed in through the second-lower set of eyelets down the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).
3. Repeat step (2), criss-crossing down the shoe two sets of eyelets at a time. Up to this point, this method is identical to the above method.
4. At the bottom, cross the lace ends and run them diagonally between the bottom and second from bottom eyelets.
5. Double back and work back up the shoe, criss-crossing through the vacant sets of eyelets.
Features:
Stays very tight
Terribly awkward
Comparative Length = 116%
Laced area uses more (about +16%)
Longer laces needed (about +7%)
Shortens lace ends (about −14%)
NOTE:
The visible crossover at the bottom makes this the messier of the two variations, plus it consumes extra shoelace and therefore shortens the ends by a little more.
Bow Tie Lacing
This method "lengthens" ends because it consumes the least amount of shoelace. The laces cross over on the outside and run vertically on the inside, forming a "bow-tie" outline.
Lacing Technique 1 (for EVEN numbers of eyelet pairs):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.
2. Both ends are run straight up the inside and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe, thus introducing a "gap".
3. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.
4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between running straight up on the inside or crossing over on the outside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Features:
Minimal look
Comfort "zones"
Loose fit
Comparative Length = 75%
Laced area uses less (about −25%)
Shorter laces needed (about −13%)
Lengthens lace ends (about +27%)
NOTE:
Instead of placing gaps every second set, their positions could also be strategically chosen to coincide with tight areas of your shoes, thus giving those parts of your feet more "breathing room".
Army Lacing
This inside-out version of Bow Tie Lacing is used on combat boots by various armies. With the crossovers on the insides, the sides of the boots can flex more easily.
Lacing Technique:
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.
2. Both ends are run straight up on the outside and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.
3. The ends are crossed over on the inside and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.
4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between running straight up on the outside or crossing over on the inside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Features:Allows more flex
Loose fit
Harder to tighten
Comparative Length = 70%
Laced area uses less (about −30%)
Shorter laces needed (about −14%)
Lengthens lace ends (about +27%)
NOTE:
Combat boots are notorious for being made of thick, sturdy leather that does not flex very easily, making them firm.
This lacing eliminates crossovers that would hold down the sides of the boot, allowing the leather to crease more freely. These corrugations can be clearly seen especially near the ankle area.
On the other hand, if you prefer to have a more rigid lacing, such as for parachuting, marching, or for preventing ankle injuries in rough or slippery terrain, Ladder Lacing would be a better choice.
Train Track Lacing
Inside segments running straight across, the result looks like train tracks, and holds very tight because of the doubled laces through eyelets.
Lacing Technique:
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.
2. Both ends are run straight up on the outside and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.
3. The ends are run alongside each other on the inside and emerge through the same set of eyelets on the other side. This will be a tight squeeze because it will be the second pass of shoelace through those eyelets.
4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between running straight up on the outside or straight across on the inside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Features:
Neat look
Holds very tight
Harder to tighten
Comparative Length = 112%
Laced area uses more (about +12%)
Longer laces needed (about +6%)
Shortens lace ends (about −11%)
NOTE:
This lacing works best with thinner or flat laces because most of the eyelets have to accommodate two passes of shoelace.
Double Helix Lacing
This patented method has the laces angled one way on the outside and the other way on the inside. The resulting double helix reduces friction and allows faster, easier lacing.
Lacing Technique:
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section), with the left (blue) end emerging through the bottom left eyelet while the right (yellow) end is fed in through the bottom right eyelet.
2. The left (blue) end runs diagonally on the outside and is fed in through the next higher right eyelet, while the right (yellow) end runs diagonally on the inside and emerges through the next higher left eyelet.
3. Repeat step (2), using the opposite colors at each repetition, following a double spiral (or "Double Helix") path until both until both ends emerge through the top eyelets.
Features:Decorative look
Fast & easy
Less wear & tear
Comparative Length = 100%
Identical length to basic Criss Cross Lacing
NOTE:
The left and right shoes can be laced in reverse (mirror image) so as to end up with a symmetrical look.
Double Cross Lacing
Running three steps forward (on the inside), one step back (on the outside). The result is short, wide crosses overlapping tall, narrow crosses. There's three variations shown: One with a gap at each end, the second without gaps, the third with the overlapping crosses interwoven.
Lacing Technique 1 (with gaps, shorter laces):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.
2. The ends are crossed over on the inside and emerge through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
3. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the next lower set of eyelets.
4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), each time crossing over on the inside and going up three sets of eyelets, then crossing over on the outside and going down one set of eyelets, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Comparative Length = 95%Laced area uses less (about −5%)
Shorter laces needed (about −3%)
Lengthens lace ends (about +6%)
NOTE:
Looks symmetrical on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 8 pairs). When used on a shoe with an odd number of eyelet pairs (such as the sneaker at left), there will be a gap at only one end of the lacing (either the top or the bottom), while the underlying crossover at the other end will appear squashed.
Lacing Technique 2 (no gaps, longer laces):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.
2. The ends are crossed over on the inside and emerge through the set of eyelets two rows higher up the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).
3. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the next lower set of eyelets.
4. The ends are crossed over on the inside and emerge through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
5. Repeat steps (3) and (4), each time crossing over on the outside and going down one set of eyelets, then crossing over on the inside and going up three sets of eyelets, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Comparative Length = 95% Laced area uses less (about −5%)
Shorter laces needed (about −3%)
Lengthens lace ends (about +6%)
NOTE:
This method looks symmetrical on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 8 pairs). When used on a shoe with an odd number of eyelet pairs (such as the sneaker at left), there will be a gap at only one end of the lacing (either the top or the bottom), while the underlying crossover at the other end will appear squashed.
Lacing Technique 3 (interwoven):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.
2. The ends are crossed over and are fed in through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
3. The ends are run over the top of the previous crossovers and are crossed over on the outside before being fed under the sides to emerge through the next lower set of eyelets.
4. The ends are fed under the previous crossovers before being crossed over and fed in through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
5. Repeat steps (3) and (4), simultaneously crossing over and either weaving over or under the previous crossovers, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Features:
Decorative look
Harder to tighten
When interwoven, terribly difficult to tighten
Comparative Length = 95%
Laced area uses less (about −5%)
Shorter laces needed (about −3%)
Lengthens lace ends (about +6%)
NOTE:
Although this interwoven variation looks great, it is terribly difficult to tighten or loosen. It's best used on low shoes or sneakers, which can be removed without loosening and thus disturbing the interwoven sections.
Hash Lacing
Like Double Cross Lacing, this method is also created by running three steps forward, one step back. The result resembles a diagonal series of hash (#) symbols. There's two variations: One with a gap at each end, the other without gaps.
Lacing Technique 1 (with gaps, shorter laces)
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.
2. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
3. The ends are run straight down on the inside and emerge through the next lower set of eyelets.
4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), each time crossing over on the outside and going up three sets of eyelets, then running straight down one set of eyelets on the inside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Comparative Length = 80%
Laced area uses less (about −20%)
Shorter laces needed (about −11%)
Lengthens lace ends (about +24%)
Lacing Technique 2 (no gaps, longer laces):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.
2. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the set of eyelets two rows higher up the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).
3. The ends are run straight down on the inside and emerge through the next lower set of eyelets.
4. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
5. Repeat steps (3) and (4), each time running straight down one set of eyelets, then crossing over on the outside and going up three sets of eyelets, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Features:
Decorative look
Harder to tighten
Comparative Length = 97%
Laced area uses less (about −3%)
Shorter laces needed (about −1%)
Lengthens lace ends (about +3%)
NOTE:
This method looks symmetrical on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 8 pairs). When used on a shoe with an odd number of eyelet pairs (such as the sneaker at left), there will be a gap at only one end of the lacing (either the top or the bottom), while the crossover at the other end will appear squashed.
Lattice Lacing
Forms a decorative lattice in the middle of the lacing. The laces are crossed at a steep angle, allowing them to be woven through each other. There's several variations shown: One with single verticals on the inside, one with double verticals, plus several variations for different numbers of eyelet pairs.
Lacing Technique 1 (single verticals, shorter laces):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.
2. The ends are crossed over each other, run diagonally upwards on the outside and fed in through the third-higher set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
3. Both ends are run straight up the inside and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.
4. The ends are crossed over each other, run diagonally downwards on the outside and fed in through the third-lower set of eyelets down the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
5. Both ends are run straight up the inside and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.
6. The ends are crossed over each other, run diagonally upwards on the outside, then fed under the sides to emerge through the top set of eyelets (skip past two sets of eyelets).
Lacing Technique 2 (double verticals, longer laces):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.
2. The ends are crossed over each other, run diagonally upwards on the outside and fed in through the third-higher set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).
3. Both ends are run straight down on the inside and emerge through the second-lower set of eyelets down the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).
4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), each time running diagonally upwards on the outside or straight down on the inside, until the ends are fed under the sides to emerge through the top set of eyelets.
Features:
Very popular!
Decorative look
Harder to tighten
Comparative Length = 122%
Laced area uses more (about +22%)
Longer laces needed (about +10%)
Shortens lace ends (about −20%)
Lattice Lacing with fat laces really accentuates the weaving.
NOTE:
It's easier to do the weaving and get all the "Overs" and "Unders" correct if you firstly complete the left (blue) end, then weave the right (yellow) end in and out.
Zipper Lacing
This method "locks" the laces at each eyelet pair. Great for lacing skates tightly because the lower sections hold while tightening. It also looks interesting, a bit like a giant zipper.
Lacing Technique:
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.
2. The ends are looped under the laces where they feed under the sides of the shoe.
3. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed under the sides to emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.
4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between looping under or crossing diagonally, until both ends reach the top eyelets.
Features:
Decorative look
Holds very firmly
Harder to tighten
Comparative Length = 106%
Laced area uses more (about +6%)
Longer laces needed (about +3%)
Shortens lace ends (about −5%)
NOTE:
Keep the lower sections tight while working on the upper sections. Zipper Lacing is a bit like tying a half-knot at each eyelet, which holds quite firmly. This makes it a great lacing for skates, boots, climbing shoes, or any footwear where very firm support is needed.
Riding Boot Lacing
This method is for riding boots (motorbike or equestrian) that are joined at the top and that loosen near the ankle. The laces zig-zag from both ends and are tied in the middle.
Lacing Technique: 1. The lace is run diagonally (grey section) and emerges through the bottom-left and top-right eyelets.
2. The left (blue) end is run straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the right side, then diagonally on the inside to emerge through the next eyelet up the left side.
3. Repeat step (2), zig-zagging upwards until the left (blue) end reaches the middle-left eyelet.
4. The right (yellow) end is run straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the left side, then diagonally on the inside to emerge through the next eyelet down the right side.
5. Repeat step (4), zig-zagging downwards until the right (yellow) end reaches the middle-right eyelet.
Features:
Neat look
Unusual layout
Special purpose
Comparative Length = 109%
Laced area uses more (about +9%)
Longer laces needed (about +4%)
Shortens lace ends (about −9%)
NOTE:
This method is not really meant to be used on normal shoes, boots or sneakers, although it can be used on them to achieve an unusual look. It's specifically intended for riding boots in which the part that is tightened and loosened is at the middle of the boot (near the ankle). This means that they lace up from both ends and fasten in the middle. On boots such as these, the sides come completely together, hiding all the angled underlying sections of shoelace.
One Handed Lacing
Eliminates the need to even tie a knot by leaving one end loose. The friction of the eyelets is sufficient to keep the lacing fairly tight.
Lacing Technique:
1. Take a lace that's slightly shorter than usual and begin by tying a knot in one end.
2. Feed the un-knotted end of the lace from inside the top right eyelet and pull it through until stopped with the knot snug against the eyelet.
3. Zig-zag the lace through the eyelets down to the bottom of the shoe similar to Shoe Shop Lacing.
4. The loose (blue) end can simply be tucked into the lacing to keep it from being stepped on.
Features:
Disabled use
Surprisingly easy
Loose fit
Comparative Length = 88%
Laced area uses less (about −12%)
Shorter laces needed (about −25%)
Lengthens lace end (about +17%)
NOTE:
Have the most tension at the top of the lacing and very little at the bottom. With the knot holding the bulk of the tension at the top end, the friction of the lace passing through every eyelet is sufficient to stop the bottom end from slipping out even though it is "loose". (This works best with either small eyelets or fat laces).
To tighten, start at the top of the lacing and work towards the bottom. To loosen, start from the bottom of the lacing and work towards the top.
Stay tuned -- More To Come!!
:: SHIN ::
