How to Kill Shoe Odor ?

Excessive perspiration from the feet causes shoe odor. The moisture from the perspiration provides the perfect breeding ground for bacteria and yeast, which cause shoes to smell. Shoe odor is most common in athletic shoes, but the problem can occur with any type of shoe. Foot and shoe odor is an embarrassing problem that many sufferers struggle with any time they have to remove their shoes around other people.

Things You'll Need:

• Cat litter
• Old socks
• Baking soda
• Shoe deodorant spray
• Odor-neutralizing insoles

Instructions

1. Fill a pair of old socks with cat litter, and tie a knot at the end of each sock to keep the cat litter from spilling out. Place one sock in each shoe and leave overnight. The cat litter with help absorb trapped moisture in the shoes as well as neutralize the odor.
2. Sprinkle baking soda inside each shoe and leave overnight. Shake out the baking soda before wearing the shoes. Baking soda will help neutralize the odor of smelly shoes.
3. Spray the inside of each shoe with a shoe deodorant spray. Allow the spray to dry completely before wearing the shoes.
4. Place odor-neutralizing insoles in your shoes. Replace once a month.

-JOJO-

The Fun Of Shoe Lacing (2)

Welcome back to the shoe lacing methods. Thank you for staying with us. Today's list will start from the 12th method. Happy reading!

 

Double Back Lacing 

This method looks interesting plus holds very firmly, but is terribly awkward to tighten. The lacing first runs down the shoe, then doubles back up the shoe. There's two variations shown: One with hidden verticals at the bottom, the other with a visible crossover.

Lacing Technique 1 (hidden verticals, shorter laces):

1. The lace is run straight across (grey section) and the ends are fed in through the second set of eyelets from the top.


2. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed in through the second-lower set of eyelets down the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).


3. Repeat step (2), criss-crossing down the shoe two sets of eyelets at a time.


4. At the bottom, run each lace end vertically between the bottom and second from bottom eyelets.


5. Double back and work back up the shoe, criss-crossing through the vacant sets of eyelets.

Comparative Length = 106%

Laced area uses more (about +6%)

Longer laces needed (about +3%)

Shortens lace ends (about −5%) 

NOTE:

The hidden verticals at the bottom make this the neater of the two variations, plus it consumes less shoelace and therefore doesn't shorten the ends by quite as much.

Lacing Technique 2 (visible crossover, longer laces):

1. The lace is run straight across and the ends are fed in through the second set of eyelets from the top (grey section).


2. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed in through the second-lower set of eyelets down the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).


3. Repeat step (2), criss-crossing down the shoe two sets of eyelets at a time. Up to this point, this method is identical to the above method.


4. At the bottom, cross the lace ends and run them diagonally between the bottom and second from bottom eyelets.


5. Double back and work back up the shoe, criss-crossing through the vacant sets of eyelets.

Features:

Stays very tight

Terribly awkward

Comparative Length = 116%

Laced area uses more (about +16%)

Longer laces needed (about +7%)

Shortens lace ends (about −14%)

NOTE:

The visible crossover at the bottom makes this the messier of the two variations, plus it consumes extra shoelace and therefore shortens the ends by a little more.

Bow Tie Lacing 

This method "lengthens" ends because it consumes the least amount of shoelace. The laces cross over on the outside and run vertically on the inside, forming a "bow-tie" outline.

Lacing Technique 1 (for EVEN numbers of eyelet pairs):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.


2. Both ends are run straight up the inside and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe, thus introducing a "gap".


3. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.


4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between running straight up on the inside or crossing over on the outside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Minimal look

Comfort "zones"

Loose fit

Comparative Length = 75%

Laced area uses less (about −25%)

Shorter laces needed (about −13%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +27%)

NOTE:

Instead of placing gaps every second set, their positions could also be strategically chosen to coincide with tight areas of your shoes, thus giving those parts of your feet more "breathing room".

Army Lacing 

This inside-out version of Bow Tie Lacing is used on combat boots by various armies. With the crossovers on the insides, the sides of the boots can flex more easily. 

Lacing Technique:

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. Both ends are run straight up on the outside and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. The ends are crossed over on the inside and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between running straight up on the outside or crossing over on the inside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

 

Features:

Allows more flex

Loose fit

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 70%

Laced area uses less (about −30%)

Shorter laces needed (about −14%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +27%) 

NOTE:

Combat boots are notorious for being made of thick, sturdy leather that does not flex very easily, making them firm.


This lacing eliminates crossovers that would hold down the sides of the boot, allowing the leather to crease more freely. These corrugations can be clearly seen especially near the ankle area.


On the other hand, if you prefer to have a more rigid lacing, such as for parachuting, marching, or for preventing ankle injuries in rough or slippery terrain, Ladder Lacing would be a better choice.

Train Track Lacing

Inside segments running straight across, the result looks like train tracks, and holds very tight because of the doubled laces through eyelets.

Lacing Technique:

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. Both ends are run straight up on the outside and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. The ends are run alongside each other on the inside and emerge through the same set of eyelets on the other side. This will be a tight squeeze because it will be the second pass of shoelace through those eyelets.

4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between running straight up on the outside or straight across on the inside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Neat look

Holds very tight

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 112%

Laced area uses more (about +12%)

Longer laces needed (about +6%)

Shortens lace ends (about −11%)

NOTE:

This lacing works best with thinner or flat laces because most of the eyelets have to accommodate two passes of shoelace.

Double Helix Lacing 

This patented method has the laces angled one way on the outside and the other way on the inside. The resulting double helix reduces friction and allows faster, easier lacing.

Lacing Technique:
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section), with the left (blue) end emerging through the bottom left eyelet while the right (yellow) end is fed in through the bottom right eyelet.


2. The left (blue) end runs diagonally on the outside and is fed in through the next higher right eyelet, while the right (yellow) end runs diagonally on the inside and emerges through the next higher left eyelet.


3. Repeat step (2), using the opposite colors at each repetition, following a double spiral (or "Double Helix") path until both until both ends emerge through the top eyelets.

Features:

Decorative look

Fast & easy

Less wear & tear

Comparative Length = 100%

Identical length to basic Criss Cross Lacing

NOTE:

The left and right shoes can be laced in reverse (mirror image) so as to end up with a symmetrical look.

Double Cross Lacing 

Running three steps forward (on the inside), one step back (on the outside). The result is short, wide crosses overlapping tall, narrow crosses. There's three variations shown: One with a gap at each end, the second without gaps, the third with the overlapping crosses interwoven.

Lacing Technique 1 (with gaps, shorter laces):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.


2. The ends are crossed over on the inside and emerge through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).


3. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the next lower set of eyelets.


4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), each time crossing over on the inside and going up three sets of eyelets, then crossing over on the outside and going down one set of eyelets, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Comparative Length = 95%

Laced area uses less (about −5%)

Shorter laces needed (about −3%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +6%)

NOTE:

Looks symmetrical on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 8 pairs). When used on a shoe with an odd number of eyelet pairs (such as the sneaker at left), there will be a gap at only one end of the lacing (either the top or the bottom), while the underlying crossover at the other end will appear squashed.

Lacing Technique 2 (no gaps, longer laces):

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed over on the inside and emerge through the set of eyelets two rows higher up the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).

3. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the next lower set of eyelets.

4. The ends are crossed over on the inside and emerge through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).

5. Repeat steps (3) and (4), each time crossing over on the outside and going down one set of eyelets, then crossing over on the inside and going up three sets of eyelets, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

 




Comparative Length = 95%

Laced area uses less (about −5%)

Shorter laces needed (about −3%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +6%)

NOTE:

This method looks symmetrical on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 8 pairs). When used on a shoe with an odd number of eyelet pairs (such as the sneaker at left), there will be a gap at only one end of the lacing (either the top or the bottom), while the underlying crossover at the other end will appear squashed.

Lacing Technique 3 (interwoven):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.


2. The ends are crossed over and are fed in through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).


3. The ends are run over the top of the previous crossovers and are crossed over on the outside before being fed under the sides to emerge through the next lower set of eyelets.


4. The ends are fed under the previous crossovers before being crossed over and fed in through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).


5. Repeat steps (3) and (4), simultaneously crossing over and either weaving over or under the previous crossovers, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Decorative look

Harder to tighten

When interwoven, terribly difficult to tighten

Comparative Length = 95%

Laced area uses less (about −5%)

Shorter laces needed (about −3%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +6%)

NOTE:

Although this interwoven variation looks great, it is terribly difficult to tighten or loosen. It's best used on low shoes or sneakers, which can be removed without loosening and thus disturbing the interwoven sections.

Hash Lacing 

Like Double Cross Lacing, this method is also created by running three steps forward, one step back. The result resembles a diagonal series of hash (#) symbols. There's two variations: One with a gap at each end, the other without gaps.

Lacing Technique 1 (with gaps, shorter laces)

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).

3. The ends are run straight down on the inside and emerge through the next lower set of eyelets.

4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), each time crossing over on the outside and going up three sets of eyelets, then running straight down one set of eyelets on the inside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Comparative Length = 80%

Laced area uses less (about −20%)

Shorter laces needed (about −11%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +24%)

Lacing Technique 2 (no gaps, longer laces):

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the set of eyelets two rows higher up the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).

3. The ends are run straight down on the inside and emerge through the next lower set of eyelets.

4. The ends are crossed over on the outside and are fed in through the set of eyelets three rows higher up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).

5. Repeat steps (3) and (4), each time running straight down one set of eyelets, then crossing over on the outside and going up three sets of eyelets, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Decorative look

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 97%

Laced area uses less (about −3%)

Shorter laces needed (about −1%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +3%)

NOTE:

This method looks symmetrical on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 8 pairs). When used on a shoe with an odd number of eyelet pairs (such as the sneaker at left), there will be a gap at only one end of the lacing (either the top or the bottom), while the crossover at the other end will appear squashed.

Lattice Lacing

Forms a decorative lattice in the middle of the lacing. The laces are crossed at a steep angle, allowing them to be woven through each other. There's several variations shown: One with single verticals on the inside, one with double verticals, plus several variations for different numbers of eyelet pairs.

Lacing Technique 1 (single verticals, shorter laces):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.


2. The ends are crossed over each other, run diagonally upwards on the outside and fed in through the third-higher set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).


3. Both ends are run straight up the inside and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.


4. The ends are crossed over each other, run diagonally downwards on the outside and fed in through the third-lower set of eyelets down the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).


5. Both ends are run straight up the inside and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.


6. The ends are crossed over each other, run diagonally upwards on the outside, then fed under the sides to emerge through the top set of eyelets (skip past two sets of eyelets).

Lacing Technique 2 (double verticals, longer laces):
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.


2. The ends are crossed over each other, run diagonally upwards on the outside and fed in through the third-higher set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past two sets of eyelets).


3. Both ends are run straight down on the inside and emerge through the second-lower set of eyelets down the shoe (skip past one set of eyelets).


4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), each time running diagonally upwards on the outside or straight down on the inside, until the ends are fed under the sides to emerge through the top set of eyelets. 

Features:

Very popular!

Decorative look

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 122%

Laced area uses more (about +22%)

Longer laces needed (about +10%)

Shortens lace ends (about −20%) 

 

Lattice Lacing with fat laces really accentuates the weaving.

NOTE:

It's easier to do the weaving and get all the "Overs" and "Unders" correct if you firstly complete the left (blue) end, then weave the right (yellow) end in and out.

Zipper Lacing 

This method "locks" the laces at each eyelet pair. Great for lacing skates tightly because the lower sections hold while tightening. It also looks interesting, a bit like a giant zipper.

Lacing Technique:

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are looped under the laces where they feed under the sides of the shoe.

3. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed under the sides to emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between looping under or crossing diagonally, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Decorative look

Holds very firmly

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 106%

Laced area uses more (about +6%)

Longer laces needed (about +3%)

Shortens lace ends (about −5%)

NOTE:

Keep the lower sections tight while working on the upper sections. Zipper Lacing is a bit like tying a half-knot at each eyelet, which holds quite firmly. This makes it a great lacing for skates, boots, climbing shoes, or any footwear where very firm support is needed.

Riding Boot Lacing 

This method is for riding boots (motorbike or equestrian) that are joined at the top and that loosen near the ankle. The laces zig-zag from both ends and are tied in the middle.

Lacing Technique:

1. The lace is run diagonally (grey section) and emerges through the bottom-left and top-right eyelets.

2. The left (blue) end is run straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the right side, then diagonally on the inside to emerge through the next eyelet up the left side.

3. Repeat step (2), zig-zagging upwards until the left (blue) end reaches the middle-left eyelet.

4. The right (yellow) end is run straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the left side, then diagonally on the inside to emerge through the next eyelet down the right side.

5. Repeat step (4), zig-zagging downwards until the right (yellow) end reaches the middle-right eyelet.

Features:

Neat look

Unusual layout

Special purpose

Comparative Length = 109%

Laced area uses more (about +9%)

Longer laces needed (about +4%)

Shortens lace ends (about −9%)

NOTE:

This method is not really meant to be used on normal shoes, boots or sneakers, although it can be used on them to achieve an unusual look. It's specifically intended for riding boots in which the part that is tightened and loosened is at the middle of the boot (near the ankle). This means that they lace up from both ends and fasten in the middle. On boots such as these, the sides come completely together, hiding all the angled underlying sections of shoelace.

One Handed Lacing

Eliminates the need to even tie a knot by leaving one end loose. The friction of the eyelets is sufficient to keep the lacing fairly tight.

Lacing Technique:

1. Take a lace that's slightly shorter than usual and begin by tying a knot in one end.

2. Feed the un-knotted end of the lace from inside the top right eyelet and pull it through until stopped with the knot snug against the eyelet.

3. Zig-zag the lace through the eyelets down to the bottom of the shoe similar to Shoe Shop Lacing.

4. The loose (blue) end can simply be tucked into the lacing to keep it from being stepped on.

Features:

Disabled use

Surprisingly easy

Loose fit

Comparative Length = 88%

Laced area uses less (about −12%)

Shorter laces needed (about −25%)

Lengthens lace end (about +17%)

NOTE:

Have the most tension at the top of the lacing and very little at the bottom. With the knot holding the bulk of the tension at the top end, the friction of the lace passing through every eyelet is sufficient to stop the bottom end from slipping out even though it is "loose". (This works best with either small eyelets or fat laces).

To tighten, start at the top of the lacing and work towards the bottom. To loosen, start from the bottom of the lacing and work towards the top.

Stay tuned -- More To Come!!

:: SHIN ::

The Fun Of Shoe Lacing (1)

You are tying your shoes everyday, almost in a mechanical way. But with these ways, you can tie your shoes in many ways as long as you pay some time and patience. These methods are widely used or representing a particular style.
 

Notice about the methods:

The start of the lacing is gray, while the lace end that starts on the left side is blue and the end that starts on the right side is yellow.

Criss Cross Lacing

This is probably the most common method of lacing normal shoes & boots. The laces simply criss-cross as they work their way up the shoe.

Lacing Technique:

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed under the sides to emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. Repeat step (2) until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Traditional look

Simple to lace

Comfortable

Corrugates shoe

Comparative Length = 100%

The shoelace length used by Criss Cross Lacingis the basic lengthcompare to other methods.

NOTE:

preferred lacing method for comfort, mainly because the crossovers of lace occur in the gap between the sides of the shoe and thus aren't pressed against the foot.

Over Under Lacing

This method reduces friction, making the lacing easier to tighten and loosen plus reducing wear and tear. The laces alternate between crossing Over and Under.

Lacing Technique 1 (for EVEN numbers of eyelet pairs):

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed Under (on the inside) and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. The ends are crossed Over (on the outside) and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between crossing Under or crossing Over, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Lacing Technique 2 (for ODD numbers of eyelet pairs):

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed Over (on the outside) and are fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. The ends are crossed Under (on the inside) and emerge through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. Repeat steps (2) and (3), alternating between crossing Over or crossing Under, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Decorative look

Faster & easier

Less wear & tear

Comparative Length = 100%

Identical length Criss Cross Lacing

NOTE:

Firstly, the laces don't rub across the edges of the shoes, which reduces wear and tear on both the shoe and the laces.

Secondly, because of the reduced friction, you don't really need to pull every single crossover when tightening or loosening. Instead, you can pull every second crossover, which is both faster and easier because those that run across on the outside are easier to get your fingers underneath.

Straight (European) Lacing

This traditional method of Straight Lacing appears to be more common in Europe. The laces run straight across on the outside and diagonally on the inside.



Lacing Technique:
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.


2. The right (yellow) end is crossed diagonally on the inside and emerges through the next eyelet up the shoe, then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the eyelet on the opposite side.


3. The left (blue) end is crossed diagonally on the inside at a steeper angle, skipping past one eyelet to emerge through the next empty eyelet up the shoe. It then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the eyelet on the opposite side.


4. Repeat step (3) with each end in turn, each time running diagonally on the inside and straight across on the outside, until both ends reach the top eyelets.


Features:

Neat on top

Messy underneath

Comparative Length = 105%

Laced area uses more (about +5%)

Longer laces needed (about +2%)

Shortens lace ends (about −4%)

NOTE:

The underlying zig-zag makes this lacing very tight & secure. The mess is mainly noticeable on shoes and sneakers with a wide spacing (as seen in the first photo at left). On dress shoes, where the sides of the shoes are designed to meet in the middle, the underlying zig-zag will be completely hidden (as seen in the second photo at left).


Straight (Bar) Lacing

Often referred to as "Fashion Lacing" or "Lydiard Lacing", this variation of Straight Lacing eliminates the underlying diagonals, which looks neater plus relieves pressure on the top ridge of the foot.



Lacing Technique:
1. The lace runs straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed into both bottom eyelets.


2. One end of the lace (yellow end) runs straight up the right side, emerges and runs straight across the second set of eyelets.


3. Both ends now run straight up the left side, each skipping one eyelet before emerging two eyelets higher up.






4. Continue running both ends across the shoe, then straight up two eyelets at a time, until one end reaches the top.


5. The other end then runs straight across the second last set of eyelets, then straight up to the top.


Features

Comfortable

Even number of eyelet pairs = Neat look

Odd number of eyelet pairs = Messy look

Comparative Length = 81%

Laced area uses less (about −19%)

Shorter laces needed (about −9%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +17%)

NOTE:

Straight (Bar) Lacing only works correctly on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 6 pairs = 12 eyelets). This is because an even number of passes across the shoe is needed for the lace ends to meet and to be tied together. Shoes with an odd number of eyelet pairs (eg. 7 pairs = 14 eyelets) finish with the lace ends diagonally opposite each other at the top of the shoe.


Straight (Easy) Lacing

This is a simplified variation of Straight (Bar) Lacing where one end runs straight from bottom to top whilst the other end steps through the eyelets.

  Lacing Technique:
1. The lace runs straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed into both bottom eyelets.


2. One end of the lace (blue end) is fed straight up the left side all the way to, and emerges from, the top left eyelet.


3. The other end (yellow end) runs straight up the right side, emerges and runs straight across the second set of eyelets.






4. The same end (yellow end) works its way up and across back and forth through the remaining eyelets.




Features:

Even number of eyelet pairs = Neat look

Odd number of eyelet pairs = Messy look

End lengths shift

Comparative Length = 81%

Laced area uses less (about −19%)

Shorter laces needed (about −9%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +17%)

NOTE:

This lacing is best suited to shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 6 pairs = 12 eyelets). The picture at left shows one workaround to this limitation for use on shoes with odd numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 7 pairs = 14 eyelets).




Hiking Lacing / Biking Lacing

An inside-out version of Straight (Bar) Lacing, which distributes pressure evenly plus keeps the knots & ends to the side, away from either snagging undergrowth or from bicycle chains & cranks.

Lacing Technique: 
 1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and emerges through both bottom eyelets.


2. One end of the lace (yellow end) runs straight up the right side, is fed into and runs straight across the second set of eyelets.


3. Both ends now run straight up the left side, each skipping one eyelet before feeding in two eyelets higher up.


4. Continue running both ends across the shoe, then straight up two eyelets at a time.


5. At the top of the shoe, the laces end up on the same side and the shoelace knot is tied at that point.

Features:

Evens out pressure

Reduces snagging

Messy look

Comparative Length = 81%

Laced area uses less (about −19%)

Shorter laces needed (about −9%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +17%)

 
NOTE:

This lacing is best suited to shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 6 pairs = 12 eyelets). The first picture at left shows one workaround to this limitation for use on shoes with odd numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 7 pairs = 14 eyelets).

Sawtooth Lacing

This method has all of the underlying sections pulling at a steep angle, which shifts the alignment of the sides and may correct an otherwise ill-fitting shoe. 

Lacing Technique: 
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.


2. The right (yellow) end is run straight up the inside and emerges through the next eyelet up the shoe, then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the left side.


3. The left (blue) end is crossed diagonally on the inside, skipping past one eyelet to emerge through the next empty eyelet up the right side. It then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the left side.


4. Repeat step (3) with each end in turn, each time running diagonally on the inside and straight across on the outside, until one end (yellow) reaches the top right eyelet.

5. The other end (blue) is then run straight up the inside to emerge through the top left eyelet.
 

Features:

Easier to tighten

Modifies fit

Mis-aligns sides

Comparative Length = 95%

Laced area uses less (about −5%)

Shorter laces needed (about −2%)

Lengthens lace ends (about +5%)

 

NOTE:

Lace the shoe so that the angled sections point towards whichever corner of the shoe feels loose. When the laces are tightened, the angled sections will pull that corner inwards, altering the fit. Naturally, the left and right shoes should be laced in reverse (mirror image) in order to balance both the look and the effect on both sides.

Shoe Shop Lacing

Often seen in shoe shops because many shoes come pre-laced this way from the factory. One end runs from bottom to top while the other end zig-zags through the eyelets. There's two variations shown: One with a long diagonal segment, the other with a long straight segment.

Lacing Technique 1 (long diagonal segment):  
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The left (blue) end is crossed diagonally on the inside all the way to the top of the shoe and emerges through the top right eyelet.

3. The right (yellow) end is crossed diagonally on the inside and emerges through the next eyelet up the left side of the shoe, then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the right side.

4. Repeat step (3) with the same end, each time running diagonally on the inside and straight across on the outside, until it reaches the top left eyelet.

  

Lacing Technique 2 (long straight segment):  
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The left (blue) end is run straight up on the inside all the way to the top of the shoe and emerges through the top left eyelet.

3. The right (yellow) end is crossed diagonally on the inside and emerges through the next eyelet up the left side of the shoe, then continues straight across on the outside and is fed in through the opposite eyelet on the right side.

4. Repeat step (3) with the same end, each time running diagonally on the inside and straight across on the outside, until it reaches the second row from the top of the shoe.

5. The right (yellow) end is run straight up on the inside and emerges through the top right eyelet.

Features:  

Easy to lace

End lengths shift

 

NOTE:

The left and right shoes can be laced in reverse (mirror image) so as to end up with a symmetrical look.

Display Shoe Lacing

Shoe stores and photographers often use this inside-out version of Criss Cross Lacing on their display shoes in order to finish with the ends neatly hidden inside the shoe.

 

Lacing Technique:  
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (grey section) and the ends are fed in through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed in through the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. Repeat step (2) until both ends reach the top eyelets and end up inside the shoe.

  

 






Features:  

Tidy look

Easier to loosen

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 100%

Identical length to basic Criss Cross Lacing 

NOTE:

Because it's easier to get your fingers under the laces from the top of the shoe and pull down, this lacing is easier to loosen, whereas Criss Cross Lacing is easier to tighten.

Ladder Lacing

This distinctive lacing is worn on military boots by paratroopers and ceremonial guard units. The laces weave horizontally and vertically, forming a secure ladder.

Lacing Technique: 

1. The lace is run straight across the bottom (gray section) and the ends emerge through both bottom eyelets.

2. The ends then run straight up on the outside and are fed into the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

3. The ends are crossed over and are fed under the vertical lace sections on the opposite sides of the shoe before continuing straight up and feeding into the next set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. At the top set of eyelets, the laces can once again cross over and pass under the straight section as shown. This not only looks consistent with the rest of the lacing but also forms a High Lace Lock, which tightens the lacing even more firmly.

Features:

Distinctive look

Stays very tight

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 127%

Laced area uses more (about +27%)

Longer laces needed (about +13%)

Shortens lace ends (about −25%)

NOTE:

Works effective on high boots with many eyelets, especially when contrasting laces are used.

Although this lacing is slightly harder to tighten, this can actually assist in getting the lacing really tight because the lower sections hold more firmly while progressing up the shoe. This makes it a great lacing to use on hiking boots, ice skates, etc.

Spider Web Lacing

Like an angled version of Ladder Lacing, this decorative method is also worn on military boots. The laces weave vertically and diagonally, forming an intricate "web". 
 

Lacing Technique: 

1. The lace is run straight across and the ends emerge through the second set of eyelets from the bottom (gray section).

2. Both ends are run straight down on the outside and are fed in through the bottom eyelets.

3. The ends are crossed over each other, then fed under the sides to emerge through the next vacant set of eyelets up the shoe.

4. The ends then run straight down and are looped under the existing vertical lace sections at the next lower set of eyelets.

5. Repeat steps (3) and (4), alternating between crossing diagonally upwards or running straight downwards and looping through the lower sections, until both ends reach the top eyelets.

Features:

Decorative look

Firm & tight

Harder to tighten

Comparative Length = 127%

Laced area uses more (about +27%)

Longer laces needed (about +13%)

Shortens lace ends (about −24%)

NOTE:

This lacing looks particularly effective on high boots with many eyelets, especially when contrasting laces are used.

Boots with a very wide spacing between the sides (such as shown at left) display the maximum area of woven shoelace "spider web".

Stay tuned -- the list is still growing!

:: SHIN ::